The history of mezze: small plates with big stories
A mezze table is rarely defined by a single dish. It is a landscape of bowls, plates, textures, colours and aromas: hummus beside warm flatbread, sharp pickles beside creamy labneh, grilled vegetables near crisp pastries, and herbs scattered across almost everything. Each mouthful can feel simple, yet the customs behind it reach across centuries of trade, migration and shared hospitality.
The word “mezze” describes a style of eating as much as a category of food. It invites people to pause, pass dishes around and build a meal through variety rather than courses. In the Levant, Turkey, Greece, Cyprus and parts of the Balkans, small plates can begin a meal, accompany drinks or become the entire occasion.
At Ebury by Fat Macy’s in Pimlico, this tradition informs a Lebanese-inspired menu of light bites, natural wines and artisanal products. The restaurant’s approach connects the generosity of mezze with contemporary London dining, while its training programme creates professional opportunities for young people living in temporary accommodation.
Where the word mezze comes from
The origins of the word are widely associated with the Arabic mazza, meaning something enjoyed or savoured, although related forms appear across several languages and culinary traditions. In Persian, mazeh refers to taste or flavour. Turkish uses meze, while Greek uses mezedes. These connections reflect the movement of ingredients, ideas and people through the eastern Mediterranean, the Middle East and the former Ottoman world.
There is no single birthplace that can claim complete ownership of mezze. The practice developed through overlapping food cultures, shaped by local produce and regional customs. Olive oil, grains, pulses, yoghurt, aubergines, herbs, seafood and preserved vegetables appear in many forms across the region, but the combinations and techniques differ from one community to the next.
Historically, a small dish might be served with wine, arak or another drink, offered to guests before a larger meal, or placed on the table as part of a leisurely gathering. Mezze therefore sits somewhere between appetiser, accompaniment and communal feast. Its flexibility is one reason the tradition has travelled so successfully.
From courtly spreads to everyday tables
Some of the foods now associated with mezze have ancient roots. Chickpeas, sesame, wheat, olives and grapes have been cultivated in the eastern Mediterranean and surrounding regions for thousands of years. Flatbreads provided an efficient way to scoop up dips and stews, while preserving methods such as pickling, salting, drying and fermenting allowed seasonal ingredients to last.
The medieval Islamic world supported sophisticated urban food cultures, especially in cities connected by trade routes. Cookbooks from the Abbasid period record elaborate preparations using meat, grains, fruits, spices and aromatic herbs. These sources do not present a modern mezze menu, but they show how culinary exchange and refined hospitality were already central to elite and everyday life.
During the Ottoman period, food traditions circulated through imperial kitchens, markets, ports and households. Dishes changed as they travelled. Stuffed vegetables, savoury pastries, yoghurt-based sauces and aubergine preparations developed distinctive local identities in places as varied as Istanbul, Beirut, Damascus, Thessaloniki and Jerusalem. A shared technique could become a different dish depending on available ingredients and community taste.
The mezze format also made practical sense. A host could offer several modest preparations rather than relying on one expensive centrepiece. Guests could eat according to preference, and a table could accommodate different dietary customs. Hospitality became visible in abundance, colour and choice.
A map of flavours and techniques
Lebanese mezze is often associated with freshness, balance and contrast. Hummus brings earthy chickpeas and nutty tahini; baba ghanoush adds the smoky depth of fire-roasted aubergine; tabbouleh contributes parsley, lemon and bulgur; and fattoush combines crisp bread with vegetables and a bright, tangy dressing. Kibbeh, sambousek, stuffed vine leaves and grilled meats add more substantial textures to the spread.
Across the Levant, the same broad family of dishes can appear under different names or with different proportions. Lebanese tabbouleh is typically herb-led, while other versions may use more bulgur. Hummus can be smooth or rustic, generously dressed with olive oil or finished with toppings such as spiced meat, mushrooms or pine nuts. Local preferences are part of the history rather than deviations from a fixed recipe.
Several techniques give mezze its distinctive rhythm. Roasting concentrates flavour in aubergines and peppers. Crushing creates dips and spreads that are easy to share. Marinating allows garlic, lemon, herbs and spices to penetrate vegetables or meat. Fermentation gives yoghurt, pickles and certain breads a deeper, sharper character. Garnishes are not merely decorative: olive oil, sumac, mint, pomegranate seeds and toasted nuts can shift the whole balance of a dish.
| Region or food culture | Familiar small plates | Characteristic flavours and methods |
|---|---|---|
| Lebanon and the Levant | Hummus, tabbouleh, baba ghanoush, kibbeh, fattoush | Tahini, lemon, parsley, garlic, sumac, grilling and roasting |
| Turkey | Haydari, ezme, dolma, imam bayildi, börek | Yoghurt, red pepper, aubergine, olive oil, pastry and herbs |
| Greece | Tzatziki, taramasalata, dolmades, melitzanosalata | Yoghurt, cucumber, fish roe, dill, lemon and olive oil |
| Cyprus | Halloumi, koupes, tahini dips, stuffed vegetables | Grilling, wheat, sesame, mint and salty cheeses |
| The Balkans | Ajvar, shopska salad, kajmak, pickled vegetables | Roasted peppers, fresh cheese, paprika and preservation |
More than food on a plate
Mezze is designed for conversation. Rather than asking diners to wait for separate courses, it puts the meal in motion from the beginning. Someone reaches for bread, another adds a spoonful of dip, and a plate moves across the table. The shared format creates a natural sense of participation.
This makes mezze particularly suited to hospitality. A host can welcome guests with a selection of familiar favourites while adding seasonal or regional dishes. A meal can be vegetarian, seafood-focused, meat-led or entirely plant-based without losing its communal character. The table accommodates difference through choice.
Drinks are often part of the experience. In Lebanon and neighbouring regions, aniseed-flavoured arak may be served with water and ice, turning cloudy as it opens. Wine has deep historical roots across the eastern Mediterranean, and modern restaurants increasingly pair mezze with local, organic or natural wines. The acidity, salinity and herbal notes of small plates can work especially well with bright, low-intervention bottles.
Mezze should not be reduced to the idea of “sharing plates” as a generic restaurant trend. Spanish tapas, Italian antipasti and East Asian banchan have their own histories and dining customs. They may overlap in format, but each tradition deserves to be understood on its own terms. Mezze is shaped by the foodways of the Middle East and the eastern Mediterranean, as well as by the communities that have carried those traditions elsewhere.
How mezze travelled into modern London
Migration has been central to the way Lebanese and wider Middle Eastern food has developed in Britain. Families, restaurateurs, bakers and producers brought recipes and techniques with them, adapting to new ingredients, regulations and customer habits. London’s food culture now includes everything from specialist bakeries and charcoal grills to refined restaurants serving regional tasting menus.
That adaptation is not a loss of authenticity. Food traditions have always evolved through exchange. A London mezze menu may use British vegetables at their seasonal best, source cheese from a local producer, or pair Lebanese flavours with a wine made elsewhere. What matters is the care with which the ingredients, techniques and cultural references are handled.
Contemporary chefs also use the small-plate format to foreground vegetables. Charred cabbage, roasted carrots, whipped beans, seasonal salads and marinated courgettes can sit comfortably beside classic hummus and flatbread. This reflects the older strength of mezze: it is generous without requiring every dish to be rich, heavy or meat-based.
At Ebury by Fat Macy’s, that balance appears in a menu inspired by Lebanese flavours and shaped for a Pimlico setting. Artisanal products from local and socially minded suppliers add another layer to the story. The result is not a museum piece, but a living interpretation of a food tradition that has always responded to place.
Building a mezze spread at home
A successful mezze table benefits from contrast. Begin with one or two creamy elements, such as hummus, labneh or a tahini sauce. Add something smoky, something crisp, something fresh and something sharp. Pickles, olives and dressed salads provide acidity, while warm bread and roasted vegetables give the meal substance.
Think about texture as carefully as flavour. Smooth dips become more interesting beside toasted nuts or crisp chickpeas. A soft stuffed vine leaf can be followed by a crunchy salad. Fried or baked pastries work well with lemon, herbs and yoghurt. Small portions allow diners to discover the spread gradually rather than filling the plate with one item.
Seasoning should be layered. Lemon juice brings brightness, garlic provides warmth, cumin adds earthiness, and sumac contributes a dry, citrus-like tang. Fresh mint, parsley and coriander can make a rich dish feel lighter. Good olive oil ties the plate together, but it should support the main ingredient rather than conceal it.
These principles are useful beyond a home dinner. They guide private dining, event catering and venue hire, where a menu must work for groups with different tastes and dietary needs. Mezze allows hosts to offer variety while keeping the meal visually generous and easy to enjoy over conversation.
Ways to enjoy mezze with purpose
Choosing where and how to eat mezze can deepen its meaning. Look for menus that respect the cuisine’s regional character, explain ingredients clearly and treat sharing as an invitation rather than a performance. Restaurants with strong relationships with producers can also show how contemporary sourcing fits within an older food culture.
At Ebury, the experience extends beyond the plate. The venue combines Lebanese-inspired food, natural wines and a welcoming setting with Fat Macy’s wider social mission. Its 200-hour programme provides professional training and support to young people living in temporary accommodation, connecting hospitality with skills, confidence and opportunity.
- Start with a balanced selection of dips, salads, pickles and warm breads rather than ordering only one type of dish.
- Pair rich plates with fresh herbs, lemon, seasonal vegetables or a lively natural wine.
- Share dishes across the table so everyone can taste different textures and regional influences.
- Ask about artisanal products and socially minded suppliers when choosing a menu for an event.
- Consider private dining or catering when you want mezze to become the centre of a larger gathering.
Share the story at Ebury
The history of mezze is written in practical ingredients and generous habits: grains ground into bread, aubergines blackened over heat, chickpeas blended with sesame, vegetables preserved for another season and plates passed between friends. Its lasting appeal comes from the way it turns variety into connection.
Ebury by Fat Macy’s brings that spirit to Pimlico through Lebanese-inspired light bites, natural wines and carefully sourced products. Visit for a relaxed meal, bring a group for private dining, or enquire about event catering and venue hire to create a gathering shaped by flavour and purpose.