Why stoneground flour makes our flatbreads and pastries special

At Ebury by Fat Macy’s in Pimlico, flour is more than a background ingredient. It shapes the aroma of a warm flatbread, the tenderness of a pastry and the flavour left behind after a bite of something savoury. Our Lebanese-inspired menu depends on simple, well-made food, so the character of the grain matters from the beginning.

We use stoneground flour because the milling process helps retain more of the grain’s natural flavour and texture. It gives our doughs a fuller taste, a gently nutty aroma and the kind of handmade quality that sits comfortably alongside natural wines, artisanal produce and light bites made for sharing.

The flavour begins with the whole grain

A grain of wheat has three main parts: the bran, the germ and the starchy endosperm. Conventional roller milling separates these components quickly and efficiently, producing a very consistent white flour. Stone milling works differently. The grain is crushed gradually between two stones, allowing the flour to retain more of its original character.

That character is easy to notice in a flatbread. A dough made with stoneground flour can have subtle notes of toasted grain, warm cereal and hazelnut. The flavour is gentle rather than overpowering, which makes it a useful foundation for herbs, olive oil, labneh, roasted vegetables and other ingredients associated with the Eastern Mediterranean.

The flour also brings a pleasing variation to the crumb. Instead of a bland, uniform texture, the dough has a little more substance and depth. For Australians used to excellent sourdough in Melbourne, long lunches in Sydney or a casual bakery stop in Brisbane, it offers a familiar appreciation of good milling in a different form.

At Ebury, that difference supports our approach to food. A flatbread may look modest on the plate, yet it carries the taste of the grain, the skill of the person who mixed it and the heat of the oven. When the base has its own flavour, every topping has something more interesting to work with.

A slower milling process protects character

Stoneground flour is produced at a slower pace than highly industrialised flour. The stones break down the grain rather than slicing through it at speed, and the milling temperature can remain lower. This helps preserve volatile aromas that may otherwise be lost during intensive processing.

The result is a flour with greater sensory appeal. It smells fresh when the bag is opened and develops a rounded flavour when it is hydrated, rested and baked. Flour is often treated as a neutral powder, but freshly milled grain behaves more like a living ingredient. Its aroma changes through mixing and fermentation before becoming part of the finished food.

This does not mean every dough should be handled in exactly the same way. Stoneground flour can absorb water differently from refined flour, and its bran content may affect gluten development. Our kitchen adjusts hydration, mixing and resting times to suit the flour. That attention is important for producing flatbreads that are flexible and tender rather than heavy.

Pastry requires a different kind of care. The dough needs enough structure to hold its shape, yet it must remain delicate. We work with the flour, butter and water until they come together without being overworked. The aim is a crisp, flaky pastry with a savoury grain flavour, rather than a tough shell that overwhelms its filling.

Flatbreads carry the warmth of the menu

Flatbread is central to many food traditions across the Levant and the wider Middle East. Its appeal comes from versatility: it can be torn, folded, dipped, filled or used to carry a few carefully chosen ingredients. That makes it well suited to the relaxed rhythm of Ebury, where guests might share a series of light bites with a glass of natural wine.

Our dough is made to be supple and generous. Stoneground flour gives it a wholesome foundation, while careful resting allows the dough to relax and become easier to shape. In the oven, the surface develops light colour and toasted patches, while the inside stays soft enough to fold around roasted vegetables, creamy dips or seasoned fillings.

The texture matters just as much as the flavour. A good flatbread should have a little resistance when torn, then yield easily as you chew. It should be sturdy enough to scoop up a dip without breaking, but tender enough to avoid feeling like a separate course. This balance comes from the relationship between flour, water, fermentation, heat and time.

For diners in Australia, the format may recall a Turkish pide shared in a Sydney neighbourhood, a Lebanese bakery in Melbourne’s north or a picnic spread packed for the Royal Botanic Gardens in Perth. Flatbread belongs in those easy, communal moments. It works for a quick lunch, a long table of small plates or a catered gathering where people move between conversation and food.

Pastry benefits from grain with personality

A pastry shell has a demanding job. It needs to protect its filling, create contrast and remain enjoyable from the first crisp edge to the final crumb. Stoneground flour contributes a more expressive base, giving savoury pastries a lightly toasted flavour that complements vegetables, cheese, herbs and slow-cooked ingredients.

The bran and germ can influence the feel of the dough, so technique matters. We avoid excessive mixing, keep the ingredients properly chilled and allow the dough enough time to rest. These steps help reduce toughness and give the pastry a cleaner bite. Rolling also needs a light touch, especially when we want visible layers or a delicate edge.

Good pastry is about restraint. Too much flour can make it dry; too much handling can make it firm; too little structure can leave it fragile. The flour should support the filling rather than compete with it. Stoneground milling gives us a subtle savoury depth, so the finished pastry can taste complete even when the recipe itself is simple.

That quality suits the kind of food we serve at Ebury. Our pastries can sit among artisanal products, seasonal ingredients and Lebanese-inspired dishes without feeling overly formal. They are appropriate for a relaxed lunch in Pimlico, a private dining menu or a catered event where guests want food that feels thoughtful but easy to enjoy.

Choosing a flour with a wider purpose

Ingredient choices at Ebury are connected to a broader way of working. We look for suppliers who care about quality, craft and responsible food production. Stoneground flour fits that outlook because it places attention on the grain, the milling process and the people involved before the flour reaches our kitchen.

We also believe that food skills should create opportunities. Ebury is part of Fat Macy’s, whose 200-hour programme provides professional training and support to young people living in temporary accommodation. Learning how to mix a dough, judge fermentation or produce consistent pastry is practical kitchen training, but it also builds confidence, discipline and a pathway into hospitality.

There is something valuable in understanding an ingredient from the ground up. A trainee can see how a small choice, such as changing the flour, affects hydration, texture, timing and presentation. That knowledge transfers to many other parts of a professional kitchen. It encourages care without making food feel precious or inaccessible.

This perspective also reflects the way many Australian diners think about bread and baking. Across local farmers’ markets, independent bakeries and neighbourhood cafés, people increasingly ask where grain comes from, how it was milled and who made the loaf. In regional areas, conversations about drought, water use and seasonal harvests make the origins of flour especially relevant. In cities such as Adelaide and Canberra, strong café and bakery cultures have helped make naturally fermented bread and heritage grains part of everyday food talk.

Stoneground flour is therefore a practical choice and a values-led one. It gives our flatbreads and pastries more aroma, texture and depth, while helping us stay attentive to the people, skills and suppliers behind the food. For guests visiting from Australia, that care can be tasted in the details: the warm bread passed across the table, the crisp pastry beside a glass of wine and the sense that a simple ingredient has been given the time it deserves.